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4 Way Stretch Lyocell Fabric.
Background
Lyocell was developed by Courtaulds Fibers (now Acordis
Cellulosic Fibers), an international supplier of rayon. It entered the
consumer market in 1991. The properties and production processes were
unique enough for the Federal Trade Commission to designate it as a
separate fiber group. The trade name for lyocell produced by Acordis is
Tencel®. Lenzing Fibers, another major manufacturer of rayon, has also
entered the lyocell market. This product is marketed as Lenzing lyocell.
An improved fiber, in terms of performance and properties, lyocell is also
friendly to the environment. Virtually all of the chemicals used in the
production process are reclaimed. The resulting fiber, lyocell, is both
biodegradable and recyclable.
Properties and Characteristics
Lyocell is a manufactured fiber, but it is not
synthetic. It is made from wood pulp harvested from tree farms for this
purpose. Because it is made from a plant material, it is cellulosic and
possesses many properties of other cellulose fibers, such
as cotton, linen, ramie, and rayon - another manufactured but
non-synthetic fiber.
In many ways, lyocell is more similar to cotton than it
is to rayon. Like other cellulosic fibers, it is breathable, absorbent,
and generally comfortable to wear. In fact, lyocell is more absorbent than
cotton and silk, but less so than wool, linen, and rayon. It can take high
ironing temperatures, but like other cellulosics will scorch, not melt, if
burned, and is susceptible to mildew and damage by silverfish. Cellulosic
fibers are not resilient, which means they wrinkle. Lyocell has moderate
resiliency. It does not wrinkle as badly as rayon, cotton, or linen, and
some wrinkles will fall out if the garment is hung in a warm moist area,
such as a bathroom after a hot shower. A light pressing will renew the
appearance, if needed. Also, slight shrinkage is typical in lyocell
garments. Stability, overall, is similar to that of silk and better than
cotton or linen.
Lyocell has strength and durability. It is the
strongest cellulosic fiber when dry, even stronger than cotton or linen
and is stronger than cotton when wet. Lyocell is much stronger than rayon
when wet. This property of high wet strength usually determines the extent
to which fabrics can be machine washed successfully (see Care below).
Other desirable properties of lyocell are its luster
and soft drape which makes it an aesthetically pleasing fiber. Since it is
a manufactured fiber, the diameter and length of fibers can be varied.
Lyocell can be made into microfibers (very fine fibers), offering depth
and body to fabrics combined with luxurious drape. Short staple length
fibers give a cotton-like look to fabrics. Long filament fibers are
successful in silk-like end uses. Lyocell blends well with other fibers
including wool, silk, rayon, cotton, linen, nylon, and polyester. It
successfully takes many finishes, both functional and those designed to
achieve different surface effects, and dyes easily. Overall, lyocell is a
versatile fiber with many desirable properties.
Uses
Lyocell was initially marketed as and can generally be
found in high end and designer apparel. Production costs are greater than
for cotton, making lyocell more expensive in finished garments. However,
as production increases and costs decrease, expect to see more lyocell
in moderately priced apparel. Lyocells soft drape and luxurious hand make
it very desirable in women's fashion garments as well as men's shirts,
particularly apparel traditionally made from silk. Other lyocell end uses
include denim, chino, and chambray casual wear. Look for these fabrics
in 100% lyocell as well as in blends with cotton, rayon, or polyester. |
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